The Curry Life Taste of Britain Festival travelled to Ljubljana in
Slovenia to introduce its inhabitants to British-Asian cuisine. Here we take a
look at the city famous for dragons; architecture and a type of sausage called Krajska
Klobasa, and discover that the best things come in small packages...
Set in the centre of scenic Slovenia, Ljubljana is a
fairytale city of humpbacked bridges, fabulous statues, dreamy fountains and
ornate monuments. According to legend, the town was founded after the Greek
mythological hero, Jason, slayed its resident dragon. Today, with dragons
firmly banished to statues and coats of arms, Ljubljana is a romantic and
picturesque place where culture is celebrated and life is bohemian.
With a population of just 270,000, the city is “made to the
measure of man,” so is small enough to explore on foot. Alternatively, tourists
can follow the example of many of its residents by cycling or taking the city
bus through the historic streets to visit a host of accessible landmarks, art galleries,
museums, cafés, bars and restaurants.
Lying between Vienna and Venice on important transport
routes through Europe, Ljubljana has seen more than its fair share of turmoil
over the centuries. Hit by devastating earthquakes in 1511 and 1895 and ruled
by the Austro-Hungarian Empire and France, it was occupied by the Italians and
Germans in the twentieth century. At the end of the Second World War, the city
was surrounded by a barbed wire fence for three years, later becoming part of
the post-war creation of the socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia
Somewhere in between the two wars, one man informed the
character and buildings of the city to make it rank as one of the 20th
century’s greatest total works of art: the architect, Jože Plečnik
whose work re-designing the walkways and squares, renovating bridges and
buildings, was carried on by his pupils and gave the city its distinctive
appearance that blends classical with new.
When Slovenia declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991,
Ljubljana shook off all vestiges of its Soviet past to become a young and modern
centre. But history is still integral to the overall experience of the city; a
walk through the Old Town takes you from the medieval squares of Mestin and
Gornji Trg, past the elegant, Baroque facades created after the first
earthquake, to the walls and postern gates of the Roman city of Emona, west of
the town centre.
Sightseeing is a relaxed and pleasant affair in Ljubljana –
after all, it was awarded the title of the world’s “most honest city” by
Readers Digest. The vast and leafy Tivoli Park and Botanic Gardens stretch
right into the centre and the River Ljubljanica offers the opportunity for
leisurely strolls along its banks lined with trendy cafés and restaurants. Boat
trips take the traveller under the city’s famous bridges; the art noveau Dragon
Bridge guarded by four detailed dragon statues; the Cobblers Bridge, named for
the cobblers’ workshops that used to occupy it, and the Triple Bridge, with its
pedestrian walkways on either side of the original stone structure.
Dominating the entire city is the medieval Ljubljana Castle,
open daily and accessible by a funicular railway, tourist road train or on
foot. Boasting a jail, Gothic chapel and ubiquitous dragon, tourists can climb
a tower to view the city and surrounding alps or visit the Virtual museum to
experience a three dimensional world.
Museum attractions include the Museum of Modern Art, the
National Gallery and Museum of Slovenia. There are also numerous street markets
with jazz and blues shops, bookshops and antiques – the Central Market in
Vodnikov Trg. sells fruit, vegetables and herbs with Slovenian specialities
including proscuitto and potica cake. In Ljubljana Old Town, five squares blend
into each other to form one long shopping mall with antiques, handmade Idria
lace and souvenirs. Downtown, the city teems with trendy cafés, bars and high
class restaurants offering cuisine ranging from typical Slovenian fare to the
fresh fish including calamari, John Dory, Scorpion fish or crab in the romantic
setting of Ribca Bistro, or more intrepid diners may want to sample a horse
burger at the Hot Horse restaurant. Nightlife entertainment usually goes on
into the small hours with jazz, rock and electronic venues.
With Lake Bled just a one and a half hours drive and the
Adriatic coast within 30km, the city is a gateway to the beautiful landscapes
and exciting terrain of the rest of Slovenia, with the mysterious Ljubljana
Marshes natural park, the Karst subterranean limestone caverns, lakes, forests
and Alpine landscapes to explore.
The Curry Life team stayed at Hotel Park - Tabor 9, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Phone:+386 1 300 25 00
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