India is
home to many magnificent restaurants and chefs but the subcontinent has no
equivalent to the sought after Michelin Star.
Curry Life took the Michelin starred chef, Dominic Chapman, to cook his
brand of quintessentially British food in Kolkata. Here’s what he made of his
experience and (just as important)… what the Indians made of him.
Dominic Chapman, Michelin-crowned chef of the Royal Oak, Paley Street summed
up the Taste of Britain Curry Festival in one word: “Amazing!”
“It’s been one of the most incredible weeks I’ve had for a
long time,” he told us with boyish enthusiasm over a beer in the Hyatt Regency Hotel in Kolkata. Dominic had just completed a jam-packed four-day
stint at the festival and, in his own words the experience had been “full on”. As a seasoned traveller he admitted that this
first trip to India
had been an eye opener. “I feel that I’ve been cheating a bit. “There is no
denying it – India
is a one hell of a country. If I was out there on my own with my back pack on,
without the luxury of being able to afford to stay at the Hyatt I would find it
hardcore. As it is I’ve been able to be
involved with the festival here with the opportunity to go out there and sample
what’s going on out there. Yes, it’s crazy but you just kind of harness that
and go with it. I’ve had an absolute ball.”
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| Dominic with festival organiser Nahas Pasha |
Dominic is the head chef at The Royal Oak Paley Street in Berkshire and Holyport’s Belgian Arms, but he’s also no
stranger to adventure. He spent some years exploring Australia before coming
back to the UK and working as chef de
partie at Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck, later moving on to take on the
role of head chef at The Hinds Head in Bray. In 2007 he moved to The Royal Oak
Paley Street, co-owned by TV personality Michael Parkinson, now one of only 13
Michelin star pubs in the UK.
It’s perhaps not surprising that Dominic has achieved such incredible culinary success;
his family has owned and run the Castle Hotel in Taunton for over 60 years. The passion for
cooking is in his blood.
After a chance meeting with Lord Karan Bilimoria, founder of
Cobra Beer, Dominic was invited to accompany the Curry Life team to India
for the Taste of Britain Curry festival.
Although India
is not covered by the Michelin food guide, there is considerable interest in
the concept, not least in the idea that a British chef can produce good food. Dominic’s
arrival was greeted with a barrage of local and international press and customers
who were keen to sample his British classics of Lamb Roast and Fish and Chips. They
went down very well! Even allowing for the customary politeness of the Indian
people, there were compliments all round, especially for the Lemon Tart which
was a sensational success. In fact it was so popular that Chef Vikram Ganpule,
Executive Chef at the Hyatt, decided to keep it on the menu.
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| Dominic with chefs Jamal Uddin and Partha Mittra |
Dominic has a huge respect for British curry chefs. “They
have an intimate knowledge of spices that leaves me feeling somewhat of a novice,”
he said. “The Curry Life chefs and the team of chefs in the kitchens here are
very passionate about cooking and they really want to learn. It’s the same if
you are a chef in the UK, in
India
or any other part of the world - you love cooking, you want to learn about
cooking and ultimately, to cook great food.”
Does he see many differences to Indian dishes
produced in the UK? “The heat of curry in the UK
is quite harsh – over there it’s a case of ‘wow that has really blown my head
off, have another drink of lager’,” he says. “Over here it’s chilli hot and it
warms your mouth but it’s fresh, you can really taste those spices and
flavours. But I still enjoy eating curries in the UK because when you’re not sitting
in a 5-star hotel, out there, if you don’t know where to go, it can be pretty,
pretty rough.”
When Dominic was not having a ball the festival threw up
some stiff challenges. Perhaps the hardest of these was producing a 7-course,
completely vegan meal for a high powered business man in Kolkata who had heard
about his expertise and wanted to test his skills out for himself. Dominic rose
to the occasion with customary aplomb. “I challenge any chef to come to India and do
the same and not find it difficult. And of course, you want to reach a certain
standard; you want your ingredients to be the best. One thing about India is that
you have to get your food from the market fresh in the morning, and then cooked
for lunch; food does not keep. In the UK, everything is perfect – we get
perfect leeks, immaculate aubergines. In this country if you’re not careful
spring onions look like chives, cauliflowers may have seen better days and
herbs are wilting before they’ve even got to a fridge.
“And there are a few problems with supply. I’ve ordered everything
from here; you expect things to arrive in two hours but they’re more likely to
arrive in two days. It took four hours for my quail egg to be delivered because
of traffic but at the end of the day that’s OK - you have to embrace it and
it’s fantastic. The team here has been brilliant and so supportive. And I’ve
learned things to take away with me – I’ve been especially impressed by the
standard of the breads which are freshly baked here in the Hyatt.”
Talking of the street life he said: “Coming from the UK it makes you
realise that we have easy – you really think these guys are so resilient; there
is poverty everywhere and yet they’re so smiley. And they all work hard and just
get on with their own lives.”
One of Dominic’s main aims on the trip was to go out and embrace
the life, country and culture of India, in particular to sample the
street food for which Kolkata is justly famous. To that end he was taken on a
whirlwind tour of the city by local journalists in search of the origins of
British curry. At Collin Street
at the home of Rubin and Pamela Ribeiro he was cooked a typical Anglo-Indian
meal; “They were a lovely, lovely family,” he enthused. “They made me a mutton
curry, yellow rice and red pepper curry. It was brilliant food – the lady took great
care in preparing and cooking it and it was delicious.”

Sampling Kolkata’s famous street food, he wasn’t quite as
enthusiastic. “It looked good – it was great street food and it looked a
million dollars but to be honest with you I was a bit conscientious about
tasting it rather than eating it because of hygiene issues.” Nevertheless he
pronounced the Phuchka “flavoursome” whilst he described the spicy chickpea
stew or gnugni with coriander, onion
and tomato as “one hell of a snack”. At Gariahat he ticked off another item on
his wishlist - a visit to the famous fish market. “It was like a farmer’s
market,” he said. “The produce was fresh and there was such variety. The
tent-like structure was typically Calcutta
as were the broad flat blades with which they cut the flesh but the people, the
chaos and the noise was just like any fresh food market the world over with its
own local characters.” From thence he was whisked off to sample the delights of
mishti at a 159-year-old sweet shop, all nicely rounded off with a mandatory Darjeeling tea and Rum
Ball.
It’s evident that Kolkata made a massive impression on the
chef but what did the people of Kolkata make of Dominic? It seems that in the
brief time he was there the genuinely enthusiastic and friendly chef left his
own indelible mark on the city.
The following day we, ourselves took a sightseeing trip
round Kolkata and were amused to discover that the tour guide had already incorporated
the legend of Dominic Chapman into his patter.
“Did you know that only a few days ago we had a visit from a very famous
British Michelin star chef who came especially to sample the food and culture
of Kolkata?” he asked proudly. ‘Yes, we did know’ we replied – and we can vouch
for the fact that he was more than impressed.
Follow the link to see a film of the Taste of Britain Curry Festival on youtube.